The Negev once flourished YnetNews.com August 19, 2007 by Doron Nissim The Nabateans preceded Ben-Gurion's vision of a flourishing desert by some 2,000 years, leaving behind impressive relics, such as the town of Avdat - a recommended site to visit on the chilly Negev nights. Traveling between Sde Boker and Mitzpe Ramon, one cannot ignore the towering hill above the Zin River bed. For many centuries, at the foot of that hill there was a resting place for convoys of traders who carried perfumes, spices, and other precious goods, coming from Petra and heading for the port of Gaza, on the ancient Spice Road. At the top of the hill stands the acropolis with exquisite remains of elaborate buildings that demonstrate the Nabateans' greatness and capabilities. This desert tribe dominated the Negev, developed a major international trade route, and made a fortune in the process. The local settlement flourished under Nabatean King Avdat II (1st century BCE), who asked to be buried in the town that still carries his name. The Nabateans worshiped their king like a god. The Romans, who ruled the land at the time, were displeased by the rich Nabateans and, with great efforts, managed to shift trade routes away from the Negev. The enterprising Nabateans did not give up. They developed sophisticated farming methods, growing olives, vines, wheat, and barley. Levees that they built in most of the Negev ravines to capture the rare rainwater still exist. The town peaked during the Byzantine era (4-7th century), when splendid churches and large houses were built there. Some of these remain as splendid mementos of the Nabateans in the Negev. Visitors center and bath The air-conditioned visitors' center at the foot of the Avdat hill, near the car park, is a good place to start the tour. The center shows samples of the spices and other products that were traded in the ancient world, offering maps and professional literature for sale. Here, you can watch a short film on life along Spice Road. The center staffers will gladly offer updated information on tours and other activities in the region. Not far from the visitors' center stands the Roman bathhouse. It was built next to a water well that runs 60 meters deep. The well provided the water for the bath, which was active during the Byzantine period and has been wonderfully preserved, in some places as high as the ceiling. Here, we can still see the dressing rooms, as well as the cold, lukewarm, and hot-water baths. The heating system, complete with a furnace and clay pipes that carried the hot air that warmed the water, can also be observed here. The Acropolis A road leads to the acropolis, the higher city. Here the Nabateans built their temple and worshiped their gods in ancient times. In the 3rd century, a temple for Zeus was built here, and during the Byzantine period, two splendid churches were erected in its stead. Next to them, facing east, they built a citadel whose walls carried 11 towers. The largest tower offers a spectacular view of the Avdat farm to the east and the entire Avdat plain. The northern church was built as a basilica and its builders used stones removed from the Nabatean temple walls. That was the town's cathedral, where the bishop resided. The southern church is a complex of buildings. Its western wing was a monastery whose rooms surrounded the inner church court. One of the rooms contained the stairs to the bell tower. The community notables were buried under the floors of the halls adjacent to the main church hall and their tombs can still be seen there today. A pedestrian path between the acropolis and the visitor's center runs through caves that served for burial, water halls, storage, and residence. If you choose to take this path down, make sure you park your car near the visitors' center before ascending. More information The Zinim Cliff (mevoat matzok hazinim): In the parking area of the Ben-Gurion Tomb National Park stands an information station and a shop. Stop here before descending to the Zin Valley and its sites for information on guided tours and other events in the area, obtain maps, books, and camping gear. The place also offers restrooms and shady seats. Creators' House (Bet Hayozer): Before entering the Avdat acropolis, visit the remains of the Nabatean creators' house, where they used to make clay pottery. The relics found here helped archaeologists establish the history of the Nabateans in the Negev. Useful information Access: From the Sde Boker-Mitzpe Ramon highway (Road 40). Opening hours: 08:00 - 17:00 (entry allowed until 16:00); on Fridays and holiday eves the park closes an hour earlier. There is an admission fee. Phone: 08-6551511 More nearby: Eyn Avdat National Park. A deep desert canyon with a rivulet that runs all year round. Along the rivulet grow water plants, including the rare Euphrates poplar. The desert spring attracts numerous animals and the hike along it is a real experience. If you are not interested in walking, an observation point offers a grand view of the wonderful canyon. It can be reached from the upper entrance to the national park. There is an admission fee for the observation point. The full hiking track goes one-way, from the Zinim Cliff near the Ben-Gurion Tomb, on the road leading to Zin River. The Avdat national park has two entrances: lower, from Zin River; and higher, from the Highway 40. Opening hours: 08:00 - 17:00; on Friday and holiday eves the park closes an hour earlier. Phone: 08-6555684